Joao Paulo II Airport in Ponta Delgada is a small yet modern airport. I don’t typically sleep well on an airplane but my wife woke me to see the beautiful sunrise. I know I was fast asleep but excitement filled me to see the first rays of color and light. We arrived and deplaned to walk across the tarmac. We quickly cleared customs and were in the public area of the airport. There are several rental car options and a couple places to eat and get a drink. Let me say now if you like coffee, the cappuccinos and lattes sold are top notch. Every cup of coffee I and my family had was very good.
One of the better shots of my view after waking on the flight to Sao Miguel. You can see 3 of the Azores islands in this photo. From farthest to closest they are Pico, Graciosa, and Sao Jorge.
We booked an Airbnb in the northeastern part of the island and our host, Paul, was picking us up. After connecting to the free airport wifi, I saw a note detailing the vehicle to look for and Paul’s phone number. Originally from Massachusetts, Paul has lived in the Azores since he was a child. Driving us to his home, Paul was a wealth of information about the island and offered many tips of places to visit.We previously arranged to rent a car from Paul which perfectly fit our family. However, we took a quick nap and only planned to visit the surrounding area and little town of Achadinha. After resting, we headed to a trail Paul suggested that was quite picturesque with its steep trails, amazing waterfalls, and chilly ponds.
Like Hawaii, the Azores were made from volcanoes. Therefore, much of the island is made up of volcanic rocks. Once at the coast, we were amazed to see the entire area was covered with lava boulders. My son wanted to swim around the area but the waves were crashing in and we agreed it was dangerous. Nonetheless, it was refreshing to feel the cool breeze as we watched to the beauty around us.
Unfortunately, what goes down must go back up. Rather than retrace our steps to return to the house, which was a long hike, we decided to return via the road. Though much easier to traverse than the trails, the road was very steep. Still, we were met with wonderful views of the coast and made a few stops to rest and take photographs.
There are many cows in this area. Paul told us he himself owns more than 100 head of cattle. Since my father grew up on a farm, I feel related to this type of life through him. My family and I enjoyed the cows who watched us walk by. Shortly, we were back in town and passing homes in the village. Many people have dogs and/or cats and the dogs had to announce their awareness we were near. A few cats walked out to get some appreciation.
Then it was time to eat. We decided to try one of the 2 restaurants in Achadinha. Os Melos was our choice this night and we wanted to do an authentic Portuguese meal. We started with bread and cheese with a bottle of wine. We typically order different meals and everyone gets a sample of what the others eat. Let me say, we loved every morsel. The bread and cheese were so good we ordered some to go. We planned to eat it for breakfast.
The sun was rapidly falling as we walked home. Several ladies were walking up the street ahead of us and some locals watched us as we passed by their homes. Spanish is the second language in our house and we thought/hoped this would ease any communication difficulties. Most of the younger generation in Portugal speak some English. This was the case in Os Melos. However, we found the Portuguese spoken here was difficult to understand. Once back in our Airbnb, Paul and his lovely wife, Natérsia, confirmed for us Azores Portuguese is different. They tend to cut off their words.
We discussed our travels and meals that day. The whole family took a special interest in us and we felt a bond with them. We discussed our hike and meal and mentioned we ordered extra bread and cheese for breakfast. It was then we learned we would have fresh bread and homemade cheese provided for us each morning. We also had marmalade, fresh fruits, milk, and eggs.
We had the whole upstairs area of the house. It was complete with every appliance needed in the kitchen and a washer for our clothes. The bathroom, or water closet, is small if more than one uses it at a time. Soap, shampoo, and conditioner are provided. Washcloths, large bath towels, and towels for the beach or hot springs are also available.
Paul asked if we wanted to see another waterfall. I think he gave us the name but I don’t remember. Still, as soon as we saw it we knew it was one we wanted to see. Since the park was closed, we could do little exploring but we were quite happy Paul took us to Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões and were surprised it was so close to his house. Leaving the park, Paul gave us more information about the island as well as his personal history as he drove. He proceeded further up the mountain in hopes we could see the setting sun. Alas, the top of the mountain was covered with clouds and we could barely see the windmills atop the mountain. Then we returned home.
We spent the remaining time before bed going through emails and doing Facebook and Instagram updates. I sat on the balcony for a while watching the sunlight fade away and stars brighten. I love to stargaze and relished these moments while feeling the cool breeze and listened to the crickets and occasional motor vehicle. I looked around to take in all I could. From the lights of the next town to the street lights of Achadinha, all seemed marvelous to me.
Finally, we settled down for some sleep.
Day 2 coming soon.
#azores #travel #travellocally #travellover
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